The Journal
Notes from the desk and the road
Occasional writing on how good travel is put together: the questions worth asking, the months worth choosing, and the details that never appear in a brochure.

River cruising · July 18, 2026
AmaWaterways or Viking: how to choose between them
Both are excellent and not interchangeable. The differences that actually decide it: excursion style, ship size, dining, and who else is on board.
Read the essay
Switzerland · June 26, 2026
When the Cows Come Home
A love letter to Wengen, the car-free alpine village that changes how you measure time, and the art of doing nothing, perfectly.

Value · June 2, 2026
Suite or balcony: when the upgrade earns its keep
Category matters more on some ships and some itineraries than others. Where the money goes further, and where it quietly doesn't.

Access · April 24, 2026
What Virtuoso access is actually worth
Upgrades and breakfast are the headline. The part that matters is who picks up the phone when a room isn’t right at 11pm.